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3

This looks like something out of an Arduino n-part “sensor kit”. It’s hard to tell because the quality of the image is not very good. My guess is, this is an analog temperature sensor, like in this link, part number 18. You can also find an example sketch there.


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Reading and understanding a report descriptor can be a bit of a black art at times. They're quite cryptic when you first look at them, but actually they make perfect sense. If you think of each entry (except "input" or "output") as setting some configuration value, and the "input" and "output" entries as using those ...


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The STM32F105xx series is not yet supported by either Arduino core (STM32 core or maple core) and neither mbed-os. The chip is still usable with the STM32 provided framework, the STM32HAL, (e.g. through STM32CubeMX). There you can select your chip and generate a template project. The program lets you easily configure the chip for "USB Device" role and HID (...


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You may also put Arduino in a reset state then Rx & Tx lines of serial converter will be free.


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There does seem to be a method called SetReport in the USBHID class, which looks like it takes the same arguments, which I'm trying to use. The method arguments of the new SetReport() method aren't quite the same and some are in a different order. The old method signature was: uint8_t setReport( uint8_t addr, uint8_t ep, unsigned int nbytes, uint8_t ...


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As to why this happens: connecting to the Arduino with the built in USB port would wipe the display because the Arduino would reset and re-initiate the display initialization routine. The spike in current was actually the initialization signal. In the bare minimum sketch the signal going high, low, then back high was again due to the Arduino resetting. The ...


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As a novice, I would like to create a small breadboard with 5 items on it. 3 toggle buttons, and two constant spin (ie. no stop at 360 degrees) knobs. Those knobs are called "Rotary Encoders". Is then like the bottoms to send what ever key stroke (single key pee click) to the pc as if it was from a keyboard (maybe even a shift+key?) Then you ...


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I have solved the issue by selecting, Tools > Processor > ATMega (Old bootloader) @Juraj, Thank you for suggestion.


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There are some good books available to help. There is the Raspberry Pi cookbook and the Arduino cookbook. These will take you from the very beginning to the point where you can make your own designs and they will work.


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There is an Arduino Xbox 360 (XInput) library. But I do not use Steam so I have no idea if this works. https://github.com/dmadison/ArduinoXInput


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It was wrong of you to try and install the driver as this board SHOULD be recognized as Leonardo. I would try to reinstall the Arduino IDE, it will also reinstall the drivers (hopefully)


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If you already have a 5V source then you can use a MOSFET as a switch to turn on/off the power to the tablet like this: But if you want to turn on/off a USB charger that goes to an AC outlet, then you will need to control a relay to turn on/off the AC supply to the USB charger. You can use a relay module like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-...


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I can't comment yet but have you updated your board manger for UNO on unbunto? tools > Board > Board Manger > Search UNO Kind of dumb to have to do that but it happen to me before and this was the solution I did.


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Problem solved. The standalone CH340-based converter for whatever reason isn't man-enough to reliably pull down the RX0 line when connected to the Mega 2560 (also with a CH340 converter on board). I've seen suggestions posted in various places that this can be a problem with respect to DTR (though I don't have a problem with it). My solution is to insert a ...


1

Seems like whatever code was running on the Flora was corrupted. As soon as I hit the reset button, the board would momentarily pop up in the Arduino IDE, and after doing this a few times, I managed to upload the "Blink" sketch while the board was visible to my system. After that the board started working normally. It reports its name as "Adafruit FLORA" ...


1

Do not bypass the fuse. Drive your external components directly from the external 5V power supply. Do not pass everything through the Arduino. You say you have a regulated 5V power supply. Assuming it provides enough current you should use it to drive your external components directly. You might need to add a filter capacitor near the feed for the Pi/...


1

Is it really programmable withut any TTL/ICSP/FTDI extention? Only if you use an ATTiny chip that has the "Micronucleus" bootloader already installed. If so, is it possible to program other AVR chip (Attiny/Atmega) with simple codes directly via USB...? Some can, but most need a bootloader installing. The ATMega32U4, for example, has a "DFU" mode, which ...


1

The USB specifications allow a maximum of 10uF total capacitance on the USB power lines. By putting 1000uF you have given it 100x more than is allowed. This causes a massive inrush current and the USB host (your computer) sees it as a short circuit, so it shuts off the power in a panic to protect itself. A capacitor does have a role to play in helping to ...


1

For those that hit the same issue, here is how I solved it: Expose the USB_SendSpace() information in the HID interface by editing /usr/local/arduino-1.8.12/hardware/arduino/avr/libraries/HID/src/HID.cpp u8 HID_::SendSpace(void) { return USB_SendSpace(pluggedEndpoint); } And adding the interface to class HID_ in: /usr/local/arduino-1.8.12/...


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Yes, but the configuration side of things will not be part of the gamepad HID. You will need to set up a second communication channel - be that serial or raw HID - to do the configuration.


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Options for the Arduino you have: Get an Arduino supporting HID drivers (e.g. 32u4 based boards, Due /Zero/ Arduino Leonardo/ Micro or Pro Micro/ M0) You use this library it supports UNO/MEGA/Leonardo/(Pro)Micro/ any 8u2/16u2/at90usb8/162/32u2/32u4 compatible boards and some more Then you have to "just" code the communication between your programm and the ...


1

I have to sadly conclude that this issue posted was for nothing. the board I was using most likely has an underlying defect (of all odds, the 45 boards my teacher was using, he gives me 1 defect board? believable.) rendering the board inoperable. I plugged the board into an entirely different laptop, downloaded and installed a full IDE for it, ran it ...


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In the Arduino IDE, the mcu will show up in Tools > Port. Your Arduino Nano will probably be visible at /dev/ttyUSB0 or /dev/ttyUSB1 following whatever is already plugged on USB. Make sure to select it. Select Nano in Tools > Board. Last step is Verify/Compile your code (^R), then Upload (^U). This link sounds to be a good read to start.


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Is my setup correct - if I am powering it from the 5V regulator (7805) through the USB port ? Yes. My Arduino and the other components from the schematic - the display, the LM358, the mosfet - will be powered on at the same time, when the 230V switch that is placed on the mains input of the 24V SMPS is closed. Could this be a problem in terms of "phantom ...


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When you disconnect the arduino from 5V you must also remove either disconnect any other device that is connected to the arduino and has its own power supply or disconnect every device that is connected to the arduino from its power supply When you disconnect 5V from the arduino while devices connected to a gpio are still powered, this gpio might see a ...


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You need to take care with constructors in C++. They get called during the global variable initialisation phase of the execution, which happens before main() gets called. main() calls the routines that initialise and configure the peripherals and such in the chip, and by having analogRead() in your constructor (which is itself another error I will mention ...


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There once was once something called an "Infinite USB Memory Drive" that acted as a thumb drive that read and wrote data to a networked share over wifi. They aren't selling those anymore, but their approach might be what you need - network share to resolve the issue of multi- device connected to same drive. In your shoes, I'd be looking at a ...


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Found the error. While the HidSharp was sending output reports, the device driver expected feature reports. Changing the line 0xb2, 0x02, 0x01, // FEATURE (Data,Var,Abs,Buf) to 0x92, 0x02, 0x01, // OUTPUT (Data,Var,Abs,Buf) resolved the issue.


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The USB host shield and the LED strip use the same SPI bus. The USB host shield has a cable select line, but the LEDs don't, so they're always listening to the bus, even when the USB shield is using it. You'll have to add some logic gates on the data and clock lines to the LED strip to turn them on or off, depending on another cable select line for the LEDs. ...


1

The ATmega328 does not have any native USB capability, so there is nowhere appropriate to connect D+/D- to the ATmega328. Assuming you are emulating an Arduino Uno, then something like this: https://www.jaycar.com.au/arduino-compatible-usb-to-serial-adaptor-module/p/XC4464 is what will come closest to mimicking the USB function on an Uno (ie a serial ...


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