The short of it is that there was a falling out within the Arduino people and now there are two groups laying claim to the "Arduino" name.
Arduino LLC runs arduino.cc. They are the steward of the Arduino IDE and libraries and own the "Arduino" trademark in the United States, and also owns the "Genuino" trademark outside of the United States. Arduino SRL (...
No, the code doesn't "wear out" the MCU. In general no matter what you are doing roughly the same level of activity is being performed. Even delay() does lots of work while it's "idling".
There are commands to make the CPU do less - place it in an IDLE or SLEEP mode - but these are used to save power rather than to reduce "wear" on the MCU.
Of course there ...
Measurements to prevent breaking an Arduino (or AVR in general):
Always remove the USB or adapter plug when you make a change in the circuit.
Check all wires before you switch it on.
Remove or make sure (temporary) loose wires/jumpers do not touch other components or the Arduino (better take them out or 'park' them somewhere else in the ...
Asynchronous serial (usually referred to as serial) communications is used to send bytes from one device to another. A device could be one or more of the following:
RFID card reader
Clock rate and sampling of data
Unlike SPI / USB / I2C serial communications does not have a clock signal. The sampling clock is an ...
The top one is a real NodeMCU version 1 board (ESP-12E module).
The bottom one is a knock-off copy - looks like the same module on it.
The biggest difference is the USB interface. The real one uses a CP2102 USB to UART bridge. The copy uses a CH340G chip. The CH340G is notoriously unstable and liable to die at a moments notice. The CP2102 is far more ...
I thought it has protection against that.
Genuine Arduinos do have some protection, yes.
Is it normal for them to react like that so easily?
Cheap rubbish? Sure. You get what you pay for.
How can I prevent this happening AGAIN..
Buy a real one. Also be more careful.
But at the price you pay for cheap clones, do you really care if they end up ...
This article can explain it better than I could paraphrase:
Arduino LLC [arduino.cc] is the company founded by Massimo Banzi, David Cuartielles, David Mellis, Tom Igoe and Gianluca Martino in 2009 and is the owner of the Arduino trademark and gave us the designs, software, and community ...
According to this (dead link):
This is an archived copy of the FD1035 3.5" Floppy disk drive: Product Description July 1984 - PDF:
The outputs are open-collector, so a pull-up resistor is required. You can ...
The connector on the flex circuit from that camera was made by Hirose (it has an HRS logo on it), and might be in the BM10, BM14, or BM20 series. You can measure the pin spacing, stacking height, etc. to check which series it's in. For example, the Hirose BM14 series of FPC to board connectors has pins at 0.4 mm Pitch and 0.8 stacking height.
The claim that the Pi is more "powerful" is a bit misleading. What does "powerful" really mean? And is it relevant to making a weather station?
I made a temperature and humidity sensor as described here using an Atmega328P (the processor that is in the Arduino Uno). The estimated average power consumption is 42 µA which has allowed it to run from 3 x AA ...
Update on the situation: on October 1st, 2016 a blog post at arduino.cc "Two Arduinos become one" announced that an agreement was found between arduino.cc and arduino.org. Two key points:
the creation of a foundation
the creation of a holding.
About the holding:
At the end of 2016, the newly created “Arduino Holding” will become the single point of ...
Those are tilt sensors. The rattling is a metal ball that contacts two pins inside, closing the connection.
The 1838B is a full module that partially decodes the received IR so that a MCU can fully decode the rest easily. What you have there is a bare phototransistor with an IR window on the top. You would use it for proximity or presence sensing. Instead of ...
Somewhat of an opinionated question but I'll give some feedback. It depends on various things:
How much UX and UI you want to give to your client
How easily can you program it
Which is a cheaper solution
How fast do you want the program to run
What is more durable and how long do you want to use the device
To prevent this answer from being lengthy, I'll ...
The two strips on either side of the bread board, color red and blue (typically) are power rails, and each strip is all connected. Your circuit connections that are on that strip are shorted together and will not work. I suggest following his layout exactly to begin with, and once you've learned the basics of breadboard connections, you can start doing your ...
Breadboards are made to work with components of a standard size - a breadboard with larger hole spacing would not be able to fit standard through-hole chips. I have never seen such an item.
Having said that, I have had a lot of success using alligator clips. You can clip them directly on to wires for LEDs, resistors, capacitors, so long as you make sure ...
It's not. Well, it might slowly wear out if you run it like 20 years....(like most other physical products)? At least it does not rely on code complexity but how many writing operation done in the same memory section. Moreover, when it wear out it will just get bricked and it won't become a simpler code like blinking the LED.
An Arduino (Uno) has three ...
For a hobbyist:
About the only life limiting software related issue might be writing to the FLASH memory as fast as you can from inside a program. But few programs make use of variables that need to survive events like changing batteries.
About the only life limiting hardware related issue is over loading the outputs with low resistance loads (...
You did not specify what Arduino board you are talking about. It would
have been useful to tag the question with the appropriate board name. In
the following, I assume you want something similar to an Arduino Uno,
i.e. an ATmega328P at 5 V and 16 MHz.
I realize I can go look up the actual design itself [...]
You should. There really isn't that ...
As opposed to the Arduino boards, the Raspberry Pi is a single-board computer with a quad-core CPU, a GPU, on-board RAM, and many peripherals. The main difference between the Pi and the Arduino (or any basic microcontroller) is the operating system. The Pi runs many Linux distributions (Debian being the official one), enabling the user to execute complex ...
Since you used Arduino tag..., you don't need an opamp. Instead you can select ADC reference voltage on your arduino to 1.1V. This way you don't need any additional parts and you get the whole precision range.
Here's a block diagram of how the Arduino power is arranged:
As you can see the USB power is fed through a FET (P-channel MOSFET) to isolate it when there is external power applied (as decided by the comparator COMP). External power is fed through a 5V regulator and is fed to the same point as the USB power. Thus you get the same 5V at the same ...
How would the wiring look like? I was unable to find any dumb-proof
I found this tutorial to be pretty usefull.
There really isn't much to it, I suggest trying a short range before going full range.
It's a "half duplex bus system" the ends of the bus should have a "end termination resistor", usually 120Ohms, between the A and B signal.
Judging by my old copy of "Upgrading and repairing PCs" - which I found a quote for on Google Books - the 12V supply is for the spindle motor, and it says:
Spindle motors, particularly on the larger form-factor drivers, can consume a great deal of 12V power.
... (or generally any other micro-controller) ...
The other answers are great, but there is one small exception.
Ferroelectric RAM (FRAM) is a form of memory that combines the non-volatility of flash and EEPROM, the writability of SRAM, and the density of DRAM.
However, read operations on FRAM are destructive to the data stored in the FRAM, and write ...
There is nothing that will work given those constraints.
You only have low power 5V signals on the Arduino which won't handle your distance requirements.
You could look into RS-485 using a shield on the arduino side and a breakout board on the Raspberry Pi.
You can make adapter boards (one for each mcu model).
The bottom side (male headers) would plug to the breadboard and the upper side would have female headers with the same pinout as an Arduino board (female hearers placed in the appropriate positions to match Arduino shields).
Such a board shouldn't be difficult to design.
Here is an image that resembles ...
Most metals will tarnish, rust, or corrode when left in water, especially in the presence of an electric current. To be safe, a water sensor should either be gold-plated or made of a conductive, insoluble, non-metallic substance.