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21

The difference is simple: Clones don't say "Arduino," where counterfeits do If I were to create 200 boards all labeled "Arduino UNO R3," it would be a counterfeit. If I were to call them "Happyduino," it would be a clone. Note: You can still write Happyduino (Arduino Compatible) on your product. Here's a quote from the Arduino FAQ section Not okay: ...


19

Measurements to prevent breaking an Arduino (or AVR in general): Precautions Always remove the USB or adapter plug when you make a change in the circuit. Check all wires before you switch it on. Remove or make sure (temporary) loose wires/jumpers do not touch other components or the Arduino (better take them out or 'park' them somewhere else in the ...


18

The genuine Pro Mini's use a MIC5205 regulator which should accept up to 16V at it's input normally, with an absolute maximum of 20V. It's unlikely that the regulator would be damaged by 15.1V. However, the component you have indicated that has blown is a capacitor. SMD capacitors are available in different voltage ratings, typically 4V, 6.3V, 10V, 16V, 25V,...


16

Over the years I have used original Arduino boards as well as a multitude of clones of varying provenance, from the excellent InduinoX that is listed on the Arduino site as an official compatible board, to the very well-made Chinese Meduino Nano Enhancement (3.3 / 5 Volt switchable), to dirt-cheap clones from eBay that are sometimes better constructed than ...


14

I thought it has protection against that. Genuine Arduinos do have some protection, yes. Is it normal for them to react like that so easily? Cheap rubbish? Sure. You get what you pay for. How can I prevent this happening AGAIN.. Buy a real one. Also be more careful. But at the price you pay for cheap clones, do you really care if they end up ...


10

SVG = Signal, Voltage, Ground. The Signal pin will carry the actual output, which may be high or low at any given time. It's basically just a male version of the corresponding standard GPIO pin. The Voltage pin will always be high (which can be 5v or 3.3v on this board, depending on the output level switch). The Ground pin is exactly what the name suggests -...


8

A clone is an exact or almost exact replica of an original Arduino board, with a different branding. A derivative is a board based or inspired by Arduino boards, with some specific addition or modification (different layouts, built-in sensors...) A counterfeit is a clone of an Arduino board, with the same branding of an Arduino board. More info on an ...


7

This is not gospel, but here is what those terms are generally used to indicate (as I understand it): compatible: a dev board which is compatible with the Arduino IDE/toolchain. The Arduino UNO uses an ATmega328 MCU, while other platforms may use different MCUs i.e. there are multiple MCUs that are compatible with the Arduino IDE. It may or may not have the ...


7

After poking around for a bit more, it turns out my problem was the baud rate. I could make it work by setting it to 19200, just a little slower. Alternatively, you can modify the ArduinoISP sketch to enable higher baud rates. I used this post to enable 115200 baud and I was able to successfully use avrdude at the higher rates. Not sure how I missed this ...


6

I see "Arduino" becoming a metonym for user-friendly embedded development platforms.A more accurate description is synechdoche, example: Kleenex. I like this question & wish I could have asked this early on in my Arduino development! Because I see Arduino as a synechdote, this could lead to too broad of an answer, but I will try giving a highlights kind ...


6

CHG340 supports common baud rates: 50, 75, 100, 110, 134.5, 150, 300, 600, 900, 1200, 1800, 2400, 3600, 4800, 9600, 14400, 19200, 28800, 33600, 38400, 56000, 57600, 76800, 115200, 128000, 153600, 230400, 460800, 921600, 1500000, 2000000 baud. 250 000 baud isn't supported by that IC. The Baud steps is either 200% or 150% of the previous value (There is ...


5

If you closely look at the Arduino circuit diagram, You'll notice that it is little more than power supply, a USB-serial interface and the microcontroller itself. The 'hard' part for compatibility is getting the board layout right (which connector goes where on the circuit board), and to load a compatible bootloader in the chip (which is free/open software, ...


5

No, I don't think that is a good idea. You would basically short the pins of each of them together, plus their power supplies. The only way it might conceivably work was if one Arduino had all its pins as inputs and the other as outputs, otherwise they would be "fighting" each other to drive a pin high or low. You would also have connected together their ...


5

It is almost certainly a device-driver issue. Since Arduinos are probably a little way down the pecking order for things that Apple is interested in, they probably don't test as extensively as (say) printers. How can Arduino make such a sophisticated machine reset? Device drivers would operate with elevated privileges, because they need to control, well, ...


5

The "problem" with the AMS1117 voltage regulator is the amount of current they can safely provide drops as the input voltage rises. I'm a Arduino noob, so I looked at the data sheet for the AMS1117 series of voltage regulators. There is a formula: PD=(VIN-VOUT)(IOUT) and Note 2: which says the maximum power dissipation for the SOT-223 package is 1.2 W. The ...


4

All the factors mentioned in the question apply to make the cost so low. However, with an exception or two as noted in the next paragraph, “low quality parts” is not much of a factor, as explained in two paragraphs after that. Possible low quality parts include the USB mini-B socket, crystals or resonators, and the reset switch. The socket and switch ...


4

UNO means ATmega328. It has always only one serial and one I2C port regardless of how many connectors (or solder pads) it is hooked to. They are just parallel outputs to ATmega pins: D0 - TX D1 - RX A5 - SCL A4 - SDA Extra pads are just for user convenience, for easier wiring.


4

Those are not additional I2C and UART ports, those are additional connectors connected to the normal peripherals. They are used in exactly the same manner as the normal connector.


3

Check twice ! Most clones are exact clones with copies of the flaws that original Arduino board had. Like for example Arduino Nano not having proper RESET and TEST pin connection of FT232RL USB-serial bridge. This flaw may lead to FT232RL not responding to PC and was eventually fixed in later revisions of Arduino Nano board. Some clones were not updated. ...


3

The component that exploded during your test is a capacitor. According to the position on the board you mentioned, it is one of the 2 electrolytic capacitors used on both sides of the 3.3V regulator (I would say that's probably the upstream capcitor). There are a few reasons why a capacitor may explode: apply an inverted voltage to it (polarized ...


3

It's what they say they are. SDA/SCL are I2C - what used to be A4/A5 on the old footprint. On the '328 based boards those are directly linked to the A4/A5 pins. The blank pin isn't used. The 5V next to it is actually mislabelled and should be labelled "IOREF". AREF has been there since the very first Arduino boards. It's the standard "R3" Uno footprint, ...


3

Always use a series resistor when connecting anything to your IO pins. In many cases you will need one anyway (like driving a LED or a BJT), and in other cases it will not hurt (like driving MOSFET gates or UART lines). A 100 Ohm resistor will limit the current to 50 mA (keeping it within the safe range), while having little effect on your circuit in most ...


3

The modern low voltage versions of a bare ATmega chip can run from either 2xAA or a lithium coin cell - you wouldn't want to use a voltage regulator, as that is not only unnecessary but introduces losses but increases the required input voltage by its dropout meaning your circuit will fail earlier in the discharge curve that in it would without. Bypassing ...


3

If your clones come with a CH340G-chip you might proceed as follows: Download the latest driver with Hi Sierra compatibility here: Select Driver version 1.4 !! Install the driver by double clicking the downloaded file - the installation will stop, issuing an error message as it is an unsigned driver - but if you downloaded the driver via the GitHub link, it ...


2

With open source electronics, what is the difference between a clone, and a counterfeit? Counterfeit: the vendor says/implies that the Arduino board is produced by Arduino/Genuino, an "original", but it is not. The screen-print is the same, but looking closer at the components and PCB there are some differences. You think you can turn to Arduino/Genuino ...


2

The best help is the schematics for the clone. 1) At number 1 there is on the clone arduino a 12 MHz oscillator? What does it do? And since there is also the regular 16 MHz oscillator I wonder why there are two. Lower left on the schematics is the 12 MHz crystal. It is for the CH340G (USB-UART chip). 2) At number 2 are 4 holes without any explanation....


2

That is a Chinese NANO clone, using the notorious CH340G chip. macOS does NOT have a driver, and it is difficult, if not impossible to get a driver which 1. macOS will let you install, and 2. Actually works. I do not know the state with current Windows. In my experience, in addition to poor support the chips are unreliable and fail to respond. You could ...


2

That error is common and usually means you either have the wrong board selected or the wrong port. Check the tools menu. Be sure you have the port for the programmer and not the port for the board if the board is also connected.


2

It sounds like there's some form of short, or the AM1117 regulator is dead. Too much current being drawn by the regulator (as it gets so hot) has caused the diode to blow. You will need to replace both the regulator and the diode and hope it works - or use a separate external regulator into the 5V pin instead. Personally, I'd use a switch-mode regulator (...


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