The genuine Pro Mini's use a MIC5205 regulator which should accept up to 16V at it's input normally, with an absolute maximum of 20V. It's unlikely that the regulator would be damaged by 15.1V.
However, the component you have indicated that has blown is a capacitor. SMD capacitors are available in different voltage ratings, typically 4V, 6.3V, 10V, 16V, 25V,...
I made up a small torch locator which used an ATtiny85 powered from a button-cell (CR2032). It looks like this:
That currently weighs 5.9g. The battery-holder weighs 1.6g so you could save that by making a more light-weight holder (perhaps a bit of plastic for insulation, and soldering directly to the battery). The chip socket weighs at least 0....
1. Your microcontroller is probably/maybe fine; your tiny little voltage regulator is dead; here's why:
Sergio, yes, you can probably/perhaps save it: your Arduino (the microcontroller--ie: processor at least) is likely just fine, assuming the linear regulator smoked and failed open, meaning it did NOT pass through the raw input voltage to your ATmega328 mcu....
There are three things you can do:
Remove the bootloader entirely and program the board with a hardware programmer (USB-ASP, Another Arduino, etc).
Edit the bootloader source, recompile, and reinstall it to the board using a hardware programmer (as in option 1).
Just don't use pin 13 for the relay.
Of the three options the third one is by far the simplest.
Nowadays, most smartphones come with a charger that is linked to the USB plug of the phone.
The charger for my HTC says: 5V, 1A, I guess this voltage must be regulated (but I haven't checked it has the charger is sealed).
The charger itself has a female USB socket on which you can plug any USB cord to link to your Arduino.
IMPORTANT! I have never tried it ...
It is more the differences between ATMega328P + FTDI (Pro Mini) vs ATMega32u4 (Pro Micro)
Apart from the minor pin differences, the peripherals for both MCUs are the same. The major difference is the ATMega32u4 has built in full-speed USB. This allows the board to function as a USB device by implementing the appropriate USB stack. E.g. it can act as a
I have good news, and I have bad news.
The good news is that only two changes to the board are required to change it from a 5V board to a 3.3V (or any voltage within spec) board.
The bad news is that there's no way in hell you'll be able to do them.
So, we work around them and get the board up and running.
The first is obvious: a 3.3V board should be ...
Officially, no. Practically, often but not always.
If I follow the datasheet to the the letter, this configuration should not work. BUT... After some test, it did work.
The data sheet does not say that it "should not" work, it says that it is that the part is not qualified for operation at 16 MHz below some voltage higher than you want to use. That ...
I would personnaly suggest an ATtiny 45/85. It is pretty much a small AVR with 5 GPIOs. You can program it with the Arduino IDE and use the Arduino as ISP. If you can design you own custom PCB, a SMD version of the ATtiny is small, low and compact. The total circuit to make the ATtiny function is also minimal.
Also, at a low clock speed (0-4MHz), you can ...
The last resort option is to open a 5v phone charger and replace the metal prongs that go in a socket with two wires, and replace the usb socket with another pair of wires that go the arduino board, but still, an Arduino Pro Mini or an Arduino Nano is smaller than the phone charger.
You will probably have to do something like that.
Because of the nature of ...
The device ID and every other stuff is working fine. The only issue being that my code gets stuck at Wire.endTransmission().
Nothing is transmitted until you call Wire.endTransmission() so that is where it will hang.
You should not try to do Wire transmissions inside an ISR (if you are doing that).
There is an alternative to the Wire library which times-...
After poking around for a bit more, it turns out my problem was the baud rate. I could make it work by setting it to 19200, just a little slower. Alternatively, you can modify the ArduinoISP sketch to enable higher baud rates. I used this post to enable 115200 baud and I was able to successfully use avrdude at the higher rates.
Not sure how I missed this ...
Can I use a I/O as (input/supply) GND?
You can use an I/O pin as a supply for another (low power) device, but
you should power the Arduino itself from its Vcc and GND pins.
I could use the reset button, but would it still give me "random
You will likely see the very same sequence every time you reset it.
There are ways around this:
It's hard to tell from your pictures, but are all the header pins soldered to the boards? If not, they need to be: there's no chance that the proper electrical connections will be made reliably if they're just inserted loosely into the holes.
This is what I have managed to achieve ...
IRLib - GitHub
Version 1.51 March 2015
Copyright 2013-2015 by Chris Young http://tech.cyborg5.com/irlib/
This library is a major rewrite of IRemote by Ken Shirriff which was covered by GNU LESSER GENERAL PUBLIC LICENSE ...
Modified code (from the demo IRrecord example):
/* Example ...
The only thing about the 3.3V Pro Mini that is actually 3.3V is the 3.3V regulator. The main chip (pretty much the only other component) is good for anything from 1.8V up to 5.5V.
Running direct from a 3.7V LiPo or Li-Ion will be perfectly fine. You might want to disconnect or otherwise disable the regulator though to reduce current consumption - the ...
Most USB to serial chips set the DTR to LOW on connecting, but it keeps it LOW.
This would reset the arduino, but since the DTR never goes HIGH the Arduino will never get out of this reset state, and not run your code.
The capacitor will AC couple the signal. The the DTR goes low, the other side of the capacitor will go LOW too, but the pull-up resistor ...
I have connected the Relay and IR receiver directly to the Arduino
mini. Pin 10-14 are used for the relays Ins and PWD 3 for IR output.
I hope you don't mean that you have connected the coils of the relays directly to the Arduino pins. If that's the case, the surprise won't be the regulator blowing up, but the MCU surviving. Please edit the post and add ...
Using the 1.1V internal analog reference to measure a draining VCC
source by using a voltage divider on it
You could indeed use a voltage divider, and measure a scaled-down Vcc
against the internal 1.1 V reference. This is, however, not what
the code you posted is doing. It is instead measuring the internal
reference against Vcc, as stated in the comment ...
This error means that the program responsible for uploading (avrdude) can not communicate with your arduino.
Did you reset the board just before programming? The reset pin of the arduino seems unconnected in your picture; so the board wouldn't be executing the bootloader when the serial cables expects it to.
Try either to reset the board manually just ...
This is part of a Fritzing circuit I used to control the x'mas tree lights (the relays and sensors have been snipped out) with an XBee. This circuit uses a 3.3v LDO you may have to change the capacitor values depending on your regulator specs. I chose to use a separate 5V regulator (not shown) but it will work off the Pro Mini's +5V power rail.
There are ...
Bootloader of the Mini and Uno are pretty much the same. (I can't find the source-code but the hex files are only slightly different).
The 2k is because they haven't updated mini328.upload.maximum_size in boards.txt. Probably because that would break the board for users that haven't updated the bootloader yet.
The 2560 is using a stk500v2 compatible boot ...
To generate a square wave, you only need to update the output at a rate of two points per cycle. (Technically, when the Arduino's PWM output is configured for 50% duty cycle, that's a square wave at some frequency.)
But to generate a clean sine wave (without a lot of distortion), you need to update a lot more frequenclly than two points per cycle. ...
You need to hook it up with the Arduino TX --> FTDI RX, and vise versa, so crossed over. If you take the FTDI and hook it up to the Ardiono pin to pin as you have it pictured it should work, provided the FTDI works.
No to your note about not having a serial port, you should have that as soon as you plug the FTDI into your computer, the Arduino is not ...