You appear to have a "pro micro" style board in which the USB communication is directly sourced from the main ATmega32u4 processor, rather than generated as serial data and then forwarded to a distinct USB-serial converter as on traditional Arduinos. Your question could have been resolved much more quickly if you had clearly stated the type of board you ...
It is more the differences between ATMega328P + FTDI (Pro Mini) vs ATMega32u4 (Pro Micro)
Apart from the minor pin differences, the peripherals for both MCUs are the same. The major difference is the ATMega32u4 has built in full-speed USB. This allows the board to function as a USB device by implementing the appropriate USB stack. E.g. it can act as a
1) have i got an out of date bootloader?
No. This has nothing to do with the bootloader.
2) if so how do i check?
3) is this intended behavior and if so why?
In a manner of speaking, yes - see below.
4) is this a bug in the arduino bootloader or libraries?
No. Elsewhere. See below.
5) short of having to change my code to look for ...
The bluetooth board uses 3.3V, not 5V according the datasheet.
So you'll need to shift the voltage level between it and the Arduino board (which is 5V). Note that the spec sheet shows how this can easily be done with 2 resistors (R1 and R2 in sheet typical application circuit, page 5).
Also, on the bluetooth module, the RS232 interface has 4 pins:
The earth's magnetic field is not parallel with the ground. In some locations it can be pointing more down than across.
NOAA has a magnetic field calculator where you can enter you latitude and longitude. For example, I am located at approx 19deg S 147degE and the field is
North Comp East Comp Vertical Comp Total magnitude
32,434.4 nT 4,280.6 ...
First you should consider changing your whole idea so that your LEDs don't draw nearly 10A.
I am assuming that for each segment you have 14-20 LEDs wired in parallel, each with its own current limiting resistor. That is very wasteful.
Instead you should be grouping the LEDs in chains of series LEDs which you then place in parallel.
Assuming you have ...
So I stumbled upon this thread while having similar problem, but with HC-05 module. So because I have too much free time on my hands during finals (no I don't) I decided to create a small github repo that might help someone sometime. https://github.com/Sackhorn/HC-05-Pro-Micro-Hookup
The code is:
//Writen for pro micro
//These proved to be usefull
It's in the notes in section 29.2:
Although each I/O port can sink more than the test conditions (20mA at VCC = 5V, 10mA at VCC = 3V) under steady state
conditions (non-transient), the following must be observed:
1.)The sum of all IOL, for ports A0-A7, G2, C4-C7 should not exceed 100 mA.
2.)The sum of all IOL, for ports ...
If your pro micro does not have a reset button, wire one between reset and ground.
Press reset twice, quickly, and immediately hit upload on the IDE.
Secondly, make sure you've downloaded and installed the Sparkfun board files for the pro micro.
Sounds like you have guessed it: although it's very hard to say from those photos, it doesn't look like you have the circuit grounded.
Connect a ground from the Arduino to the black wire from the battery.
I experienced the same frustrating issue for days. It was Ubuntu.
The fix was also so easy: sudo apt purge modemmanager
Until I discovered it, I suffered headache for days.
The auto upgrader may cause issues with this command. It can be solved
with the following command:
sudo dpkg-reconfigure -plow unattended-upgrades
At the first prompt, choose not to ...
@Bram, @jsotola is highlighting in the comments that the example photo you show with a 9 pin keyed two row connector has two usb cables connecting to it. USB connections often have four wires each. The standard wire color coding is:
(Source Wikipedia - USB)
Board manufacturers are often looking for a simple way to connect multiple panel mount USB ports to ...
Arduino Pro Mini
The Arduino page for the Arduino Pro Mini and the Arduino Micro.
Arduino Pro Mini: ATmega328 (ATmega168 on older boards)
Arduino Micro: ATmega32U4
Both have 32KB of Flash and 1KB of EEPROM
The Arduino Pro Mini has 2KB of SRAM where as the Arduino Micro has 2.5KB
According to http://arduino.cc/en/pmwiki.php?n=Reference/BooleanVariables, "Each boolean variable occupies one byte of memory." Meaning you are trying to use 4032 Bytes of RAM with your array which I assume you do not have (whatever this unofficial Arduino is -- it's likely to be less than that: the ATmega328 of the Arduino Mini has 2 kB of SRAM, the ...
You have to do some tweaks to the usbkeyboard libraries that comes with the IDE.
For a video tutorial, take a look at this:
Arduino Leonardo as a multimedia keyboard
Which uses the information from this site, if you prefer text only:
Arduino Leonardo multimedia keys
The Leonardo and ProMicro both use the ATMega32u4 and should both work with theses ...
Just hook up the serial pins from the bluetooth module to the corresponding Pro Micro pins: TX to RX and RX to TX. I hope this can help someone.
Then look for data like this:
Serial1.begin(9600); // Init Hardware Serial port on pins 0 and 1 - Bluetooth
Serial.begin(9600); // Init Virtual Serial Port - Machine
Keyboard.begin(); // ...
What happened was the ignition caused massive spikes on the 12V power. You require an automotive grade regulator that can cope with spikes in excess of around 70V or more.
Your best bet is probably a car USB charger adapter since they are cheap and easy to get hold of.
I've got an idea. Your board isn't being recognized. Try unplugging the arduino and see if Com 1 is still there. Sometimes it can recognize mice and other devices as Com 1 or 2 instead of your arduino.
On some of my development machines after everything settled out my devices will show up on Com 4 and 5 when I am working on two at a time.
If this is not ...
I'm unable to provide a complete answer yet but my research so far into a similar quest to use a similar remote can at least answer why you are getting two values for the same button on the remote. This is by design: the Nokia-32 RCMM protocol of this remote uses toggling codes that flip between one value and another on alternating presses of the same button....
Because the SD card is an SPI device it shares the same pins as the ISP interface. The only way to not have the SD card interfere with the ISP is to not have the SD card connected.
As you have seen, that can be achieved by removing the card.
It can also be achieved by adding a tri-state buffer between the MCU and the card so the MCU only connects the card ...
No, you cannot - the ATmega's ADC is referenced to its ground, and there are also some strict limits on providing inputs more than a little bit outside of the range between its power and ground.
You may be able to read two analog inputs and subtract them for a sort of "software differential" analog input, but the signal on an LED is unlikely to be ...
If you amplified with an op-amp powered by 5V then it couldn't produce more than 5V output, so that could be your solution. Failing that, I think a resistor and a couple of clamping diodes would help. The resistor is to current-limit the clamping diodes. I don't think you need to worry about dropping the voltage through the resistor because the analog input ...
Some important facts:
The 32U4 cannot act as a USB master, only a USB device (it doesn't have a USB OTG interface).
The USB shield is an SPI based device. It can communicate with any host MCU that can use SPI, as long as you can wire it in properly.
The Arduino doesn't have the processing power or memory to deal with the sheer onslaught of data a USB camera ...
Problem solved! By taping twice the reset and holding it the second time I managed to program my board and now the arduino ide detectes it and it works as expected.
Taping and releasing the button twice did not work but holding it the second time worked for me. I am a almost complete noob in electronics for now so to me is black magic that not releasing ...
I have successfully solved this a year ago and I am trying to remember how I did it. So while it's fresh in my head this thing has to do with the bootloder.
The first and most obvious thing you can do is try to doubletap the reset and ground contact. Double tapping it will force the Arduino to reset and start in the bootloader for 8 seconds.
This is how I ...