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@jsotola was correct and the software defined pin directions incorrectly. Looks like I fried one of the pins in the process (multimeter shows continuity between the pin and ground), but when I rewired to a new pin on Port D and ran the corrected software, everything seems to work as expected!


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This is basic algebra 1. Say steps / degree = 5 So write that as 2 fractions: steps 5 ----- = - degree 1 Then take the reciprocal of both sides: degrees 1 ------- = - step 5


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Wiring 6 batteries up so it gives you both a stack of 3 and a stack of 4 is not easy, and although you can do it you shouldn't do it. The only arrangement is this: simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab (The grey link is optional and makes little difference if it's there or not). The reason you shouldn't really do that arrangement ...


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Timer 1 overflows at 255 because that's how it has been configured by the Arduino core, as it is intended to provide 8-bit PWM. If you want to use the timer in normal mode, you should undo the Arduino's initialization by setting TCCR1A to zero. Two comments on the ISR: ISR (ANALOG_COMP_vect) { timeNow = TCNT1; Serial.print (timeNow); Serial....


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I am posting a code please try it may be it can help you #include "RTClib.h" RTC_DS3231 rtc; char daysOfTheWeek[7][12] = {"Sunday", "Monday", "Tuesday", "Wednesday", "Thursday", "Friday", "Saturday"}; void setup () { Serial.begin(57600); #ifndef ESP8266 while (!Serial)...


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Using clear command on Octave before executing a=arduino('COM8') will remove this problem. Use it like this: clear a=arduino('COM8')


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changing to the old bootloader worked for me!


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The firmware update over WiFi is called OTA update. OTA stands for "over the air". The esp8266 can OTA update itself. The Arduino library for this is called ArduinoOTA and it is bundled with the ESP8266 Arduino boards support package. See the example for ArduinoOTA library in IDE Examples menu. Other MCU have the self update option too. ESP32 has ...


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For me selecting the ATmega328P (Old Bootloader) from the Tools --> Processor menu in the Arduino IDE solved the problem. See: https://gyorgybalassy.wordpress.com/2020/10/16/arduino-programmer-is-not-responding-not-in-sync-error/


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I've seen this error a few times and renaming the serial port fixed the problem in my case. I documented the steps in detail in Tip #4 of this blog post: https://gyorgybalassy.wordpress.com/2020/10/16/cant-open-device-com-access-is-denied-arduino-upload/


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I have solved the issue by selecting, Tools > Processor > ATMega (Old bootloader) @Juraj, Thank you for suggestion.


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Wowwww i finally figured it out after a week of messing around, and 20 mins after posting my question. To anyone else who stumbles across this: Please understand if you're following this tutorial here or here. There is a bug in the code: SoftwareSerial softSerial(3, 2); // RX, TX should be SoftwareSerial softSerial(2, 3); // RX, TX Also the suggested baud ...


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The confusion about I2C address really comes from whether it's treated as a byte or 7-bit (MSB). For example, on the OLED PCB, it's stated address I2C = 0x78, which is 0b_0111_1000 (I2C address write). In the Adafruit Arduino SSD1306 library, it uses 7-bit I2C address, that 0x78 becomes 011_1100 (taking the 7-bit MSB) = 0x3C


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Can you use different resistors for each display group? If so that will solve your problem along with what Majenko said.


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You are getting confused. The pullup resistor is only needed on open drain when you are using it to generate logic levels. It turns the OD output into an RTL output. You don't want that. Instead you want your open drain outputs to act like a low-side switch transistor - which is infact what they are. You can do that by simply placing your LEDs in series with ...


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If you pealed the backing off the bread board you will find that you have plugged in your green, red and photo resistor wires into one piece of metal. This means they are shorted together and as such do not work as you might expect. Also, be aware that photo resistor or cadmium sulfide cells are slow to react to changes in light. Sometimes taking about a ...


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I think your problem is here: if (RTC.read(tm)) { display.printTime(tm.Hour, tm.Minute, true); } This code displays the current time, and it runs on every single loop iteration. This is visibly not what you want. Your project should have at least two distinct operational modes: “display the current time” and “allow the user to input data”. You ...


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your transistor base should be connected to the PWM side of the Arduino and not the collector. put a 1kOhm resistor between that base and arduino too. collector to load, load to positive of battery or power source. emitter to ground.


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