I bought a Blend Micro (an Arduino Micro with Bluetooth) a few months ago, and after my first experimentation with uploading the Blink sketch something went wrong with the USB connection--it would supply power, but no computer (Windows, OS X or Linux) would show it as a USB device, and Windows would complain that the device was somehow damaged. Anyway, when I plug the board in, it still boots up and runs "Blink" so I'd like to try to still use it.

I have a USB-to-FTDI cable, and it would seem fairly straight-forward to use that, but I'm a little uncertain to the appropriate wiring and whether I would need to tell the Arduino software somehow that I was using FTDI.

I can figure out these connections: (I think)

  • black to ground
  • red to 5V (VIN?)
  • orange to RX
  • yellow to TX

What about green and brown? Do one of those go to RST (Brown?) and MOSI (Green?)

I figured I would ask before accidentally burning something out.

  • A little more information as I've been Googling and reading. First of all, my FTDI cable is a Digi TTL-232R-3V3, so the wire colors are: black=GND, brown=CTS, red=VCC, orange=TX, yellow=RX, red=RTS. Looking at an Adafruit article I wonder if I'm out-of-luck in the Blend Micro being Leonardo-based and having USB managed inside the chip rather than using USB-to-serial on the board. – Murray Todd Williams Apr 7 '15 at 15:43
  • You could try re-flashing the bootloader using another arduino as ISP. – Gerben Apr 7 '15 at 16:21
  • I'm afraid (a) that's a bit beyond by beginning experience, and (b) I think that would require on a Micro those six headers in the middle of the board, but those aren't exposed in the blend micro because the space is used by the Bluetooth chip. If booloader re-flashing can be done using the standard pinouts along the edges, can someone point me to a reference as a starting point? – Murray Todd Williams Apr 8 '15 at 11:23
  • You should be able to recover a Leonard-type board by putting it into DFU mode. – Chris Stratton Apr 8 '15 at 12:45
  • The six pin header is just for convenience. The same pins are also broken out on the side. – Gerben Apr 8 '15 at 18:59

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