Is this battery:

Polymer Lithium-ion Battery

Model Number: PGEB014461


Producing enough energy to power the following Arduino-micro project:

Battery (thin, flexible) to be worn. It will be safely encased (See below)

I would also be using a micro heart pulse sensor module:



and a transmission module

(bluetooth, WiFi, IR, etc... whichever is suggested or judged appropriate for an alpha project(Needs to be reliable for short range))

Edit: Clarifications about safety standards applied and "do not bend" comments...

They do not have to be kept flat. The 0.5 mm cells can be flexed or bent into a cylinder, into a hat band, belt, etc.

As previously mentioned, the battery will be safely encased and will not go against these warnings...

Do not immerse the battery in water or seawater, and keep the battery in a cool dry environment during stands by period.

Do not use or leave the battery near a heat source such as fire or heater.

When recharging, use the battery charger specifically for that purpose.

Do not reverse the position (+) and negative (-) terminals.

Do not connect the battery to an electrical outlet.

Do not dispose the battery in fire or heat.

Do not short-circuit the battery by directly connecting the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal with metal objects such as wire.

Do not transport or store the battery together with metal objects such as necklaces, hairpins etc.

Do not strike or throw the battery against hard surface.

Do not directly solder the battery and pierce the battery with a nail or other sharp object.

  • Comments are not for extended discussion; this conversation has been moved to chat.
    – VE7JRO
    Commented Aug 10, 2019 at 19:32

2 Answers 2


The Arduino Micro requires 5V. It runs at 16MHz, and you can't run at 16MHz at voltages below about 4V.

To run off a 3.7V battery you need an Arduino board that runs at 8Mhz, such as the "3.3V Pro Micro" from Sparkfun.

To know if your battery is suitable for your project you need to work out the hourly average current draw. That is the proportion of "active" and "inactive" times for each of the devices (transmission duty cycle for your transmitter, sleep times for your MCU, etc). Until you know that you can't know the capacity (mAh) you need for your project to run for the desired amount of time between charges.

You can also drop the idea of an Arduino and branch out. A board that is probably tailor made for your project is the Adafruit Feather M0 Bluefruit LE which is designed to run from a Lithium Polymer batter (and even includes the charger) and has bluetooth built in.


In a word, no. You need to provide an Arduino Micro with either > 6.5V unregulated into the barrel connector, or a regulated 5V supply directly to the 5V line.

You could use a buck/boost DC/DC converter to boost your 3.7V battery output to 5V and feed that directly into the 5V line on the Arduino (or better, feed it into the USB connector, since that will use the input switching on the Arduino.)

This one, for example:


Or this one: https://www.digikey.com/reference-designs/en/ac-dc-and-dc-dc-conversion/dc-dc-smps-single-output/1592?utm_adgroup=Converters&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvM6-9pf54wIVxMDICh36XAxlEAAYASAAEgJsF_D_BwE

Or this one: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2190

  • To whoever down-voted my answer, can you explain what you found lacking?
    – Duncan C
    Commented Aug 11, 2019 at 17:45
  • to that person; I'm canceling all your down votes with a up-vote, gl. haha Commented Aug 11, 2019 at 18:00
  • If somebody thinks my answer was poor then a down-vote is fine. I'd like some feedback on what was wrong with my answer however.
    – Duncan C
    Commented Aug 11, 2019 at 19:36
  • he down-voted Majenko answer too... Commented Aug 11, 2019 at 20:25
  • "he?" I don't know of any way to tell who's doing the down-voting.
    – Duncan C
    Commented Aug 11, 2019 at 20:27

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