0

I have 2 nRF24L01+ modules that were working fine then...stopped. I'm wondering if I accidentally fried one of the modules.

When I run the RF24 library GettingStarted example, this is the output of the module I believe may be fried:

RF24/examples/GettingStarted/
ROLE: Pong back
*** PRESS 'T' to begin transmitting to the other node
STATUS        = 0x00 RX_DR=0 TX_DS=0 MAX_RT=0 RX_P_NO=0 TX_FULL=0
RX_ADDR_P0-1  = 0x0000000000 0x0000000000
RX_ADDR_P2-5  = 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00
TX_ADDR       = 0x0000000000
RX_PW_P0-6    = 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00
EN_AA         = 0x00
EN_RXADDR     = 0x00
RF_CH         = 0x00
RF_SETUP      = 0x00
CONFIG        = 0x00
DYNPD/FEATURE = 0x00 0x00
Data Rate     = 1MBPS
Model         = nRF24L01
CRC Length    = Disabled
PA Power      = PA_MIN

I've changed out cables and connections all the way through. I also replaced this module with the other one directly and the other worked fine.

So, my question: Is this output showing definitively that I've killed the module and just need to buy a new one? Or is there some way to "flash" or reset the module?

  • 1
    If one works, and the other (in the same circuit) doesn't, then it does indeed look like it's fried. There is no way of resetting these devices. – Gerben Jun 18 '16 at 18:35
  • First, you should check continuity of your wiring (wire connections may become loose after some time, in particular if you move your circuits around). Then, if you have access to a digital analyzer you could check levels of all connections between Arduino and NRF (MISO, MOSI, SCK, CS, CE) and see if something is wrong. – jfpoilpret Jun 19 '16 at 8:15
  • Output says no connection with the chip, if you have not messed with it, if it has not been shorted or in any other way mishandled, I'd suspect wiring. Because I have never heard of anyone frying the neat chips neither somehow damaging. But if you give it 5V instead of 3.3V or short the board itself somehow everything is possible or just ESD above the rating killed it. – Avamander Jun 19 '16 at 16:45
  • Also these devices lack any permanent configuration, power is cycled means settings are lost. It also lacks any reflashable firmware. – Avamander Jun 19 '16 at 17:05
1

Assuming you have triple checked all your wiring before posting this question you should add a small capacitor between Vcc and GND near the nRF24: anything between 10uF and 100uF will do.

Rationale: these devices draw quite a decent amount of current when bootstrapping and transmitting and if they don't receive enough juice they just reset themselves showing those all zeroes settings.

They are pretty robust devices, not that easy to fry.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.